Labelling clothes with cost-per-wear details could curb fast fashion

A study by the University of Bath and Cambridge Judge Business School, both in the UK, tested how CPW influences purchasing decisions across six online experiments. The results are published in the academic journal Psychology & Marketing. 

The research shows that CPW increased preference for high-quality clothing, even when the upfront price was higher. The effect was strongest when study participants could compare items’ CPW to one another, and when they were shopping for everyday wear versus occasion wear. 

“Cost-per-wear reframes sustainability as smart spending,” explains Dr Lisa Eckmann, from the University of Bath’s School of Management and Bath Retail Lab. “Cheap fast fashion suddenly appears more expensive due to its higher cost-per-wear and quality pieces are viewed as better financial investments, not just greener choices.” 

The research shows that communicating CPW can be more effective than making general durability claims – if brands provide relevant reference information to enable comparison making. There should also be independent third-party certification to alleviate potential customer scepticism about claims. 

CPW is already used in certain circles 

This CPW concept is common in fashion and sustainable consumer circles to signal durability and quality, but isn’t yet in use in stores and shopping malls frequented by ordinary consumers. 

Says Eckmann: “Cost-per-wear could be used much like unit pricing in supermarkets. [It] could be a low-cost, high-impact tool for retailers and policymakers to reduce textile waste and the environmental and social impacts of fast fashion.” 

Although bringing CPW into everyday retail use could increase affordability perceptions of more expensive and high‐quality clothing, the researchers say they recognise that many consumers will still choose lower-quality options with higher CPW, simply because they cannot afford the higher upfront purchase price. 

Nevertheless, they hope their study will spark interest among retailers and shoppers, and that future research work could take the proposal instore to measure real-life consumer behaviour when they encounter CPW – extending the study beyond the mere online measure of preferences and intentions. 

“Cost-per-wear only reflects durability as one sustainability measure. It doesn’t reflect ethical considerations, such as worker conditions, or ecological aspects, such as the use of natural fibres over synthetic fibres,” said Eckmann emphasises. 

You can find out more about the study here.